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The maximum number of fish you can have in a pond depends on the volume of the water, the quality of the water, the size of the fish, the species of the fish, the climate of the area and the food available.

If the pond has no pump, filter or other equipment, in a warm climate, you shouldn’t keep more than two 15 centimetre fish per cubic metre (two 6 inch fish per cubic yard). You can keep fish at much higher densities than this, but the chances of them remaining healthy are not good.

The better the water quality, the more fish you can keep. With the right technology, fish farms keep up to 200 kilograms of fish in a cubic metre of water (about six pounds of fish per cubic foot). However, as a rough guide, in a garden pond half a metre (one and a half feet) deep, constantly in the shade, with well-buffered water being pumped continuously through an ultra-violet clarifier (to prevent algae blooms) and a biological filter, you could keep up to nine goldfish of 15 centimetres (six inches) length per square metre of pond (i.e.135 centimetres of fish per square metre, or about 45 inches of fish per square yard). To be safe, keep less than half this number so that you have plenty of leeway in the event of the pump or UV failing. In a warm climate, if the pond is in the sun much of the day, reduce the number by half again – i.e. about 35 centimetres per square metre (14 inches per square yard).

Obviously, the larger the fish, the more it pollutes the water so the less the number you can have in the pond. Fish growth tends to be restricted by the size of the water body they live in. For example, goldfish can grow to more than 30 centimetres (12 inches) long, but in most average-sized ponds, they usually won’t grow to more than 20 centimetres (8 inches).

Some species need more space than others and some species pollute the water more than others. For example, koi are twice as polluting as goldfish, probably because they stir up the pond bottom sediments more. Also, some species of fish are more tolerant of poor water quality than others. For example, koi can live in water that isn’t pure enough for trout.

Climate affects fish activity because they are cold-blooded. Their metabolism doubles with every 10 degrees centigrade rise in temperature which means they eat twice as much and pollute the water twice as much. As a general rule, you can keep double the number of fish in water at 13 degrees centigrade as you can in water at 26 degrees centigrade.

Ideally, you should keep only as many fish in a pond as the food chain in the pond can support. The amount of natural food available will vary from pond to pond. Up to 30 centimetres per square metre (12 inches per square yard) of fish survive well in some ponds without being fed. So, keeping the fish numbers down means you don’t have to spend the money or time to feed them. More importantly, by not feeding the fish you aren’t adding nutrients to the pond which feed algae.

Source by Lloyd Mathews

The two most common types of pond aeration systems are diffused aerators and surface aerators. While each is highly effective, each has certain pros and cons that make them the appropriate choice based on your ponds characteristics.

Diffused aeration systems utilize the power of air to de-stratify the water column and infuse oxygen into the pond. Typical set up involves an air compressor that pushes air through tubing down to diffuser(s) located and the bottom of the pond. When the air reaches the diffuser, the diffuser breaks it up into tiny bubbles that are released into the pond. The bubbling action of the air rising to the surface causes the water to de-stratify, meaning the poor, oxygen deprived water at the bottom of the lake is mixed with the oxygen rich water above, causing noxious and harmful gases to be released into the atmosphere. At the surface, where the bubbles break, additional oxygen transfer is made adding to the overall oxygen content of the water.

Diffused aeration is typically used in larger/ deeper ponds and lakes of more than 8 ft deep. Diffused aeration is more energy efficient where large ponds are concerned while also offering the advantage of keeping electrical wires out of the water. They also cause very little surface agitation for people who like a smooth look to their pond or lake

Surface aerators, as their name suggests, are located at the ponds surface. These units utilize a pump mounted beneath a float that pumps water from the pond into the air or right at the surface. Unlike diffused aerators, surface aerators are best used in shallow ponds and lakes. Oxygenation using floating aerators occurs when the water that is splashed into the air makes contact with the ponds surface when it comes back down. This interaction allows for the venting of gasses and the transfer of oxygen, however because all of the pumping of water and oxygen transfer occurs at the surface, very little benefit is gained at the lower depths.

Surface aerators can also serve a dual purpose. Aside form the primary function of oxygenating water, surface aerators can add aesthetic appeal as they are available with different spray patterns. However, if aeration is to be the primary function of the unit, it is important to select an aerator that creates a fine mist and a wider display. These types of units allow for greater venting and oxygen transfer as they create more turbulence at the pond’s surface.

Source by Casey Coke

Pond dredging is the process by which pond muck, sediment, and sludge that has built up over time is removed by a machine. This process can be done in a couple different ways, but each process has the same end goal:

1. Increase pond depth
2. Improve pond appearance
3. Benefit pond health

One more thing that’s always the same: Dredging your pond is very expensive.

Why Dredge My Pond?

Pond dredging sometimes becomes necessary when pond depth becomes too shallow for the pond to be self-sustaining. Ponds reach this point from years pond chemical treatments, algae blooms, and/or neglect. As a result, pond muck continues to build upon itself until a pond that was originally 8 feet deep is all of a sudden just 2 feet deep.

In this event, your pond becomes a cesspool full of algae and unpleasant odors. Don’t bother looking for wildlife or fish, because they won’t be able to survive. So the real question is…

How do you prevent reaching this point?

How can you avoid the need to dredge your pond? (And avoid spending all the money that comes along with that process… )

3 Solutions are Listed Below:

1) Pond Management

A pond is like any other feature on your property – it must be taken care of. If you ignore it, you’ll pay the price down the line.

What happens if you ignore your garden? Or your yard? Or your furnace? Exactly…

Manage your pond. Pay attention to it. Give it the care it needs to become an asset to your property. Clean, healthy ponds can increase property value by up to 20%! Whereas dirty ponds can end up decreasing that property value by 10-15%.

The simple act of paying attention to your pond, managing it, and taking the necessary actions can be the difference between enjoying a relaxing pond atmosphere and shelling out the cash for dredging.

2) Pond Aeration

Pond aeration is one of the best ways to guard against the need to dredge. This is the step that pond owners with foresight will take in order to secure a healthy, sustainable pond ecosystem for years to come.

Benefit #1: Aerating your pond allows for a healthy ecosystem to take hold. Healthy pond ecosystems break down algae and debris instead of letting them turn into muck. No muck = no dredging.

Benefit #2: An efficient, effective aeration system will induce enough mixing of the water to keep the sediment / muck particles suspended in the water column. This way (in the event that they are not all broken down right away) the oxygen-rich water column can do its work over time. This prevents muck from settling and creating the need for dredging.

3) Pond Bacteria and Sludge Fighter

Pond bacteria and Sludge Fighter Pellets are a great way to combat algae and muck in the short term, while still maintaining a healthy ecosystem.

Both of these solutions are completely natural, and promote the health of the pond (compared to chemicals that kill algae, but also harm the pond).

Bacteria works along with the aeration to break down all of the nutrients in the water that create algae growth.

In the event that you have started to accumulate some muck, Sludge Fighter Pellets will work to break them down so that you won’t end up with a problem that is impossible to solve other than by dredging.

In Conclusion…

Don’t make a bigger problem for yourself by neglecting your pond. Take care of it with some of the approaches recommended above. It will increase your property value, and prevent the need for expensive dredging.

Source by Tim LaBarge

Many hobbyists first get the idea to build a Koi pond of their own after seeing their first pond in person. The idea of coming home after a long hard day to hear the sounds of a beautiful flowing waterfall and the beauty of colorful Koi fish swimming in crystal clear water sounds almost too good to be true. What could be better than coming home to paradise, your own private oasis in the privacy of your own backyard? This is the very thought process many new pond owners go through when they first catch the “pond bug” and decide to begin digging a lagoon in their yard.

Any pond owner will tell you that owning a pond can be an incredibly rewarding experience. The countless hours spent relaxing in your favorite lounge chair on your back porch, doing absolutely nothing but enjoying the tranquil environment you have created can be a definite stress reliever. Purchasing some small inexpensive Koi fish at your local pet store and watching them grow over the years, perhaps teaching them to eat from the palm of your hand. These moments are the fruits of your labor, the joy that can come from building the outdoor water feature you’ve always dreamt of.

Unfortunately, building a pond or water garden is simple as it may appear. There is definitely more to it than simply digging a hole and filling it with water. Every pond, every water garden exists as its own ecosystem. This ecosystem must provide a healthy living environment for Koi fish, goldfish, and other pond inhabitants. The water in your pond must be constantly filtered, and care must be taken to avoid green water — the dreaded “pea soup” syndrome common to newer ponds. The purpose of this article is to help new pond owners avoid some of the costly mistakes when constructing their own pond.

The biggest regret many pond owners have after building their first pond is they wish they had made it bigger. Koi keeping can be an addicting hobby, and it is not uncommon for many pond owners to add dozens, if not hundreds of Koi fish to their ponds. Unlike common goldfish, Koi fish are available in several different varieties and an easily exceed two feet in length within a few years if given proper care. Many koi collectors become Koi Kichi, which means “crazy for Koi.” Not unlike someone who collects postage stamps or baseball cards, many Koi keepers collect Koi.

The term “Koi” is actually short for Nishikigoi, which are ornamental carp often kept as pets in outdoor ponds. Koi are incredibly hardy species and survive through a wide range of temperatures. Many new pond owners take this hardiness for granted; however, and are not exactly diligent when it comes to pond filtration and other required steps to help ensure clean, healthy pond water. This lack of effort often results in consistent parasite infestations resulting from poor water quality. Left unchecked, this commonly leads to Koi illnesses and ultimate fish death.

There are basically two different types on water features commonly found in backyards. These water features include water gardens, which are commonly filled with a variety of aquatic plants, and proper Koi ponds, which are specifically designed to provide suitable home for Japanese Koi fish. The differences between these water features are significant. Water gardens are primarily designed for plants and often feature a lot of rocks in the water to help create a more natural appearance. While many water gardens are very beautiful to look at, they are not suitable for Koi keeping.

A proper Koi pond should include several important features which require you to choose the best pond supplies possible. First and foremost, a proper Koi pond must ensure healthy clean water. Outstanding water quality can be accomplished by any number of commercially available pond filter systems on the market. It is important to understand the goal of pond filtration is to provide healthy water and this does not necessarily equate to clear water as well. Healthy water can still be green, which is a major issue for many pond owners wishing to actually view the beautiful fish swimming in their ponds.

The addition of an ultraviolet sterilizer can help achieve clear water in even the murkiest of Koi ponds. Also known as UV clarifiers, these units effectively kill green free floating algae commonly found in pond water, causing it to sink to your pond floor where it is removed by your filter. Most commercially available UV sterilizers are designed to clear your pond water within three days, and require minimal maintenance. For best results, it is recommended to replace the UV lamp in your ultraviolet clarifier once every two years.

The heart of any backyard water feature is a reliable circulation pump. Because a Koi pond is a living ecosystem unto itself, it is recommended to leave all equipment running on a continuous basis. This means the pond pump you choose must offer energy efficiency, reliability, and be properly sized for your specific needs. There are two basic categories when it comes to selecting a water circulation pump. Depending on your pond design, a pond owner can choose between a submersible pump and an external pump. Which pond pump type is best varies based on your specific needs.

External pond pumps are designed for out of pond installations. In general, external pumps are available in larger sizes than submersibles and offer superior energy savings. It is also far easier to repair most external pumps, as replacement components are readily available. External pumps are ideal for use in Koi ponds and water gardens of all sizes. If using a pressurized bead filter or if you have a waterfall more than four feet tall, an external pump is also highly recommended as these units perform far better under these conditions than to most submersible pumps.

Submersible pond pumps are also available in a variety of sizes. Since a submersible pump is designed to run while under water, it is generally easier to install a submersible pump on most water features. Many popular submersible pumps for Koi ponds feature an oil-free design, which is important because this eliminates the danger of oil leaking into your pond water, creating potentially unsafe conditions for pond life. In general, submersible pumps are ideal for most water gardens and small ponds which do not have bead filters installed.

The phrase “garbage in garbage out” definitely applies when it comes to selecting the right pond equipment for your outdoor water feature. Quality definitely counts. Quality products may cost a bit more, but usually pay for themselves over time by providing lower maintenance workload and a longer useful life. The questions addressed in this article are only a small fraction of those required to build a proper Koi pond or beautiful water garden that your entire family will enjoy for years to come.

Source by J. Eugene Jaramillo

In a typical pond you could not have too much aeration, in certain circumstances you can get what’s called ‘super saturation’ which can be very dangerous to fish. Super saturation occurs when air is added to water under pressure, in a pond system this could happen if you had a pin hole in a pipe leading to a pump, as the water is drawn through the pipe air is pulled in through the hole, however this is quite rare.

More likely in a pond you can waste oxygen by pumping too much in via an air pump, oxygen is very important in a pond, particularly if it is heavily stocked for fish and in particular koi. In a traditional garden pond you may have a waterfall and some oxygenating plants, as these may add enough oxygen into the water. However koi are quite large fish, some as long as a metre and would quickly eat any plants in the pond, also the large filtration units used on koi ponds require large amounts of oxygen in order to work, so you will quite often have to add additional aeration to both the pond and filtration system, remember the warmer the water the less oxygen will be available, ponds with excess algae growth can also suffer from lack of oxygen as the algae uses it up.

However this is where many people start to add too much air, it won’t do any harm but it can be unsightly seeing a Jacuzzi type water swirl, and most of the air evaporates back into the atmosphere rather than dissolving in the pond water.

Tips for Adding Aeration to Your Pond Filter

Pond filters use large amounts of oxygen in order for the filtration process to work, remember a pond filter is a ‘living microclimate’ with bacteria converting harmful pollutants in the pond water into harmless nitrate which evaporates, in most pond filters the easiest way of adding extra air is by using a suitable air pump with some air stones, place the air stones at the bottom of the filter media, as a rough guide use one air stone for every square foot, for large filters you may use larger air disks or air rings, not only will the air bubbles help feed the bacteria, but it will also stop solid waste settling, helping to keep your filters cleaner, so a few extra bubbles here won’t do any harm.

Tips for Adding Aeration to Your Koi Pond

This is where I often see excess use of aeration, if you place a large 20cm air disk for example in you pond with a 40 litre air pump attached, you are probably straining the pump which will shorten its life, and at least 50% of the air you are putting in the pond will come straight back out at the surface of the pond.

All air disks and stones have a limit to how much oxygen can be pumped through, when you pump too much air into them you will generally find that the bubbles are larger, the finer the bubbles the more oxygen will be dissolved into the pond water, as an example if you used a 20 litre air pump on the 20cm air disk, the result would be less disturbance pond surface and more oxygen dissolved into the pond water. For a pond of around 3000 gallons a 20 litre air pump and suitable air disk or if preferred around 6 standard air stones would provide more than adequate aeration into your pond.

Source by Mark Jason Huyton